A RESTAURANT named the Red Dog Café does not conjure images of Michelin star presented food (which I took great delight in photographing) or fancy food techniques – but my sceptical expectations were definitely blown away.

Satisfying a transitioning pescetarian with exciting meals out has not been easy so far. More cafés cater to specialist diets than restaurants but the Red Dog Café cum wine bar and bistro is ranked number one of the top ten vegetarian spots in Colchester.

Although the food was incredible, I am confused as to why the meat-heavy menu is number one as a ‘proper’ veggie could eat very little here.

However, this semi-vegetarian and her animal-loving colleague, Emma, sat at the window table for nearly three hours and indulged in the most creative and intricately flavoured food we had tasted in the least pretentious restaurant ever.

Before we chose our starters and mains from the chalkboard, I quizzed host Charlotte, who runs the pub with Chris White, on what was in it all. Unsurprisingly she knew her stuff and explained it so we hung on her every hunger-inducing word at the bar, where the menu is placed.

The daring in me opted for snails in enough garlic butter I am sure I could still taste it the next morning, but I love the stuff. There was just enough left in the shell to tip onto the warm slices of white bread which accompanied it.

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In the meantime, Emma’s stack of pigeon breast with black pudding and a celeriac remoulade looked delicious and fun. I would go as far as to say it stopped her coming up for air.

Each meal was a showpiece. Vibrant reds from beetroot done three ways for our shared starter – candied, caviar and foam – drizzles, dots and sprigs of green – even a non-foodie could not fail to be impressed.

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But the best was yet to come.

Psyching myself for the next course, which could have arrived a tad faster but it was an intuitive service and anyone glancing over could see were eating slow – my eyes lit up.

Half a red onion baked inside of a glazed open tart with the lightest pastry and a hint of cheese under the base from where it had been sat on top of mashed potato. The tart tatin was sweet, the asparagus still crunchy and amongst my trendy spiralised courgette, the layers just continued.

It was delightful.

My advice would be to arrive at the former Prince of Wales Public House with an open mind and allow yourself to be charmed by its complex simplicity.

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Red Dog Cafe, Kelvedon Road, Inworth

  • What we ate:

Snails in their shells and garlic butter £8
Pigeon, prosciutto, black pudding and celeriac remoulade £9
Salmon gravadlax, candied beetroot, caviar and foam £9
Onion tart tatin, courgette spaghetti, macerated tomato dressing £14
Halloumi burger £8.95
Tiptree jam doughnut £7
Eton mess £7

  • The verdict:

Atmosphere 3/5

Food 4/5

Decor 4/5

Value 5/5

Service 4/5

Disabled access? Yes