IT is well know the best laid plans of mice and men, frankly, never go to plan.

The plan, as set out, was for my husband, Steve, and I to go for lunch at a gastropub in Tiptree.

However, the sign ‘Chef wanted’ suggested it might not be the best move.

So, it was on to Plan B, not that there was a Plan B other than to find another pub.

The Compasses is understated – cottages on the side of the road which had, at some point in history, been converted into the village pub.

It was not adorned with floral hanging baskets, the décor was functional and comfortable but not glamorous. The beer garden is more dedicated to beer than garden.

But do not judge by a book by its cover.

Turn the page and see what story it has to tell.

For beer lovers, The Compasses is a mecca. It has won the ultimate accolade of being crowned Essex CAMRA pub of the year and offers an array of wonderfully named and tasting beverages.

But we were there for food, appetites heightened by the delay from our earlier disappointment.

The Compasses’ summer menu sets the taste buds tingling, offering a particularly good choice for vegetarians.

The mouth-watering choices include chargrilled haloumi on a bed of spinach, vegetable jambalaya and three-bean chilli. I was temporarily converted, ignoring my carnivorous tendencies to select creamy garlic mushroom on toast for my starter. It was simply sublime.

Steve went all retro and chose the 1970s classic prawn cocktail with Marie Rose sauce. It was, he said, delicious with plump, tasty prawns and a delicious sauce.

As the sun smiled on us on this English summer’s day, I opted for a simple quarter-pound beef burger for my main meal. But, to steal a popular ad slogan, this was not any quarter-pound beef burger, this was a Compasses beef burger.

Prime Essex beef, stacked high with salad, bacon and cheese in a toasted bun, all of which melted in the mouth. The chips were also superb, Aunt Bessie would have been in awe.

Steve had hoped for mint and rosemary marinated lamb rump but, alas, the butcher’s had not delivered.

A little crestfallen, he chose the Compasses chicken burger and was not disappointed. The chargrilled chicken breast oozed its juices over a sundried tomato and basil relish. Delicious, declared Steve, as he cleared his plate.

The portions were extremely generous. Too much for me. Only manners, Steve added, as he finished the remainder of my meal.

For dessert, we shared a crème brulee which was creamy and indulgent.

So by happy accident, we enjoyed the most wonderful meal with the most attentive and pleasant service.

Just as well the other pub was looking for a chef.

WENDY BRADING

The Compasses
12 Colchester Rd
Great Totham 
CM9 8BZ
01621 891238

WHAT WE ATE:

Creamy garlic mushrooms on toast with salad garnish £6.75
Prawn cocktail with marie rose sauce and granary bread £7.95
Compasses burger with onion rings, a side of chips and home-made coleslaw £12.95
Compasses chicken burger with a side of chips and home-made coleslaw £12.95
Crème brulee £6.50

THE VERDICT:

Atmosphere 5/5
Food 4/5
Decor 3/5
Value 4/5
Service 5/5
YES