FOR starters, Colchester is certainly not short of a great Asian restaurant.

I’ve returned to my firm favourites time and time again – North Hill Noodle Bar, China Chef, Na Re Thai – because I just know I’ll always be in for a treat.

The culinary competition is fierce and, in my head, the gauntlet had been thrown down. I was ready to be impressed.

So at first, I worried for Bambu Vietnamese restaurant, just opened at the Hythe.

Bambu has been in the works for a year, and is tucked away in Quayside Drive with a view of the river.

I had brought along my mum and stepdad – firstly because it’s nice to treat the olds once in a while, but more importantly, I knew they would be excellent guinea pigs.

Neither had been introduced to a Pho before (the traditional Vietnamese broth pronounced ‘fuh’, one of Bambu’s main offerings) and if I could trust anyone to give me an honest opinion on their dinner, it would be my middle-aged stepdad from Harlow, who loves nothing more than a sturdy pie and chips.

So, after parking at B&Q and getting temporarily lost (clearly just us, since the restaurant was packed when we arrived), we were welcomed into a perfectly-lit, rustic, woody dining room, which was mercifully warm.

The interior – hand-crafted by co-owner, Kong – is based on a bustling Vietnamese street. The central bamboo-topped food stall is a brilliant focal point, and there are lots of thoughtful touches, like conical hats used as lamp shades. It had a great atmosphere, though the wooden bench me and mum were sat on could have done with a cushion.

On to the food – as we visited on Bambu’s pre-opening taster night, the staff were just getting used to coping with a full house. After an eager 20 minute wait, and some excellent sweet Prosecco, we tucked into course one of five – Bambu’s Tasty Mix, consisting of lemongrass chicken skewers, crispy spring rolls, chicken summer rolls and crunchy Vietnamese salad.

This was a resounding success – familiar enough, with some of the best satay sauce I have ever tasted on the lemongrass chicken. Stepdad polished off the deep-fried spring rolls with gusto and we were all impressed with the minty summer rolls, wrapped up in banh trang (thin rice pancakes). Even the salad disappeared.

Next up was beef Pho, a deep bowl of broth with rice noodles, bean sprouts and delicate slices of beef. It was everything I love about Pho – it was tangy and complex and left me with a sense of being nourished. We were all impressed, especially stepdad.

Course three comprised of prawn cake on sugarcane sticks, which was a new concept for us. This little snack consisted of a prawn ball skewered on a piece of sugarcane, like a lollipop. It was sweet and juicy and I thoroughly enjoyed it. Mum was sceptical and stepdad left the sugarcane.

The last savoury dish on the taster menu was chargrilled lemongrass chicken served with a dome of jasmine rice, drizzled in soy sauce. It was a simple dish with perfectly-cooked chicken, although I would have loved stickier rice. That said, all three bowls were polished clean.

To round off our Bambu feast, we were presented with a gorgeous mango pudding with a raspberry on top. I would describe it as a creamy, fruity panna cotta which set off the whole meal perfectly, and was by no means just a palate-cleanser.

At the end of the night, we rounded up what we might have changed – the slightly jarring dance music in the background and adding a few homey touches, including a bathroom sign. What we loved most about Bambu were the starters, the healthier offerings and amazing value for money. The five courses were just £16.80 a head, and I can really see that appealing to the hundreds of students which have Bambu on their doorstep.

Overall, Mai and Kong have succeeded in creating an authentic snapshot of Vietnam, and I have to say it might just become a new family favourite.

EMMA HOBLEY

The bill: 

Bambu’s Tasty Mix £6.95

Beef Pho £8.95

Prawn cake on sugarcane sticks £4.65

Chargrilled lemongrass chicken with jasmine rice £8.75

Mango pudding £3.80

The verdict:

Decor 4

Food 4

Atmosphere 5

Value 5

Service 5