WITH the cracking variety of restaurants Colchester has at the moment, when a place like Greyfriars creates the kind of buzz it has, it must be pretty good.

Well it is and actually I would go as far to say that when it comes to that elusive Michelin star Essex so desperately craves, a few tweaks here and there, and this place won’t be far off getting one.

Situated in a former Georgian townhouse built in 1755, the interior is simply stunning.

We started off with a couple of cocktails in the snug bar, surrounded by magnificent lilac blue wallpaper, leather backed chairs and a glorious bay window looking out on to the patioed rear garden, dominated by its Holm Oak, all wonderfully lit up in the winter night sky.

I suspect cocktails are a bit of a speciality at Greyfriars judging by the selection they have and although I could have easily had two or three, dinner awaited us.

Getting a table is a bit of a tough ask at the moment so when I booked I was left with an early or a very late slot.

Fortunately choosing an early slot gives you the added bonus of choosing from the Table d’hote menu and at three course for £19.50 it doesn’t get much better value than that.

Admitedly the a la carte menu does offer up some ridiculous tantalising options but after a quick look at our ‘set’ menu, there was more than enough choice to keep both my wife and I very happy indeed.

Our tardiness in booking way in advance also meant we didn’t manage to get a table in the main dining area, the beautiful art deco Cloisters restaurant, but our cosy little room at the front of the house was just as nice and actually in terms of intimacy, was pretty near perfect.

Adorned with glorious Lalique-esque wall lights, the room could have perhaps done with some olde-worlde paintings scattered around the place, and I would have got rid of the golden air vents but everything else was really rather lovely.

Beautiful surroundings, attentive service and it only got better when our starters arrived.

The wife’s delicately flavoured Jerusalem artichoke with pickled mushrooms, confit potato, soft quail eggs, smoked artichoke purée, and truffle oil should have been on a flat plate but other than that was spot on for taste and textures. A delightful dish.

My crab tian, a kind of loose coleslawry round mousse was almost as good with its crème fraîche, avocados, and horseradish vinegar cutting perfectly through the saltiness of the crab.

For mains I went for calves liver which came with a bubble and squeak mash and thyme jus. The livers were cooked to perfection, as you would expect, but were so thinly cut, they melted in the mouth. With the mash soaking up the rich jus, I really was in culinary heaven.

My wife essentially had the fish and chips, except this was Greyfriars fish and chips with a batter that was as light as air and the best chips I have ever tasted.

Already fairly full to the gills, desserts were shared, thankfully, with the salted caramel chocolate tart the runaway winner thanks to its rich, sumptuous gooeyness, coupled with the tartness of the passion fruit puree.

I did like the brulee with its glorious yellow thick cream and raison shortbread biscuit, and on any other day it would have got a resounding thumbs up - if it wasn’t for that glorious tart.

I’m coming back just for that and perhaps another cocktail or two!

NEIL D’ARCY-JONES

Greyfriars High Street, Colchester 01206 575913 www.greyfriarscolchester.co.uk

THE BILL

Table d’hote menu £19.50 for three courses

Jerusalem artichoke

Colchester crab tian

Day boats local Mersea Island cod in Pitfields artisan beer

Pan fried calves liver with Suffolk treacle cured bacon

Salted caramel chocolate tart

Almond brûlée

THE VERDICT

Decor 4

Food 5

Service 5

Atmosphere 4

Value 5